thriceshanghaied

Gains and Losses

In Rachael on April 27, 2011 at 10:08

I am not speaking nor comprehending Chinese as well as I initially hoped I would as I stand here at the seven month marker looking backwards. I can cruelly belittle myself over this fact, but like most people, I can also forgive myself with liberal leniency. (I love myself too much to stay mad for long.) But I think it’s beneficial for me to look over these last few months, admit where I have woefully (and willfully) embraced the path to certain forms of failure, and also realize the little victories which goad me on more than anything else.

I’m not a natural at languages. I know this because I still don’t understand 98% of the (Mandarin) conversations I hear about town. I think part of this is due to my profound love for English, and my years of reading, writing, and reveling in it. English is pretty easy to get fairly ‘good’ at, and maybe that’s why I am. But as for how this relates to Chinese, it’s a bit of a depressing story. I filter the Chinese language through the English language, which is natural and common, but also a practice which I most vehemently do not recommend. Chinese is abundant in shapes and sizes which will not fit through that filter. Not on your life! I admire and envy those individuals who never ever think of Chinese in terms of English. They are the few (the happy few!) who can see them as separate entities, and aren’t even tempted to combine them. (That’s why complete immersion is so beneficial when it comes to learning a language. You don’t have someone telling you the definition in your mother tongue. It’s much easier to realize that a tree is actually a “shu” when “shu” is the only word for tree that you hear. In fact, it’s the same method used for learning your mother tongue. Novel, I say. Novel.)  I am still at the point where everything I am taught is immediately shoved through that English filter. Maybe gradually it will dissipate. I hope so, and I’ll let you know if it does.
It’s not just that I love English so intensely, but also that I don’t love Chinese enough. When my three hour class is over, I’m ready do something other than continue to study Chinese. Many people I know will go home and review all afternoon. I haven’t devoted myself to Chinese like I should have, but that was and has been a conscious decision all along. I’m not ready for it to be my life. I am enjoying Shanghai, my new apartment, tutoring Chinese people in English, cooking, reading really smart people’s blogs, watching TED videos, meeting other foreigners, listening to music, volunteering, going to church, Bible study, and yes, reading books in English. Maybe I should drop all those things and study Chinese like mad, but that sounds a bit dreadful, to be honest. I also value my “alone time” a little too much, and to think of spending time with giggly, girly Chinese females after a three hour class and a two hour tutoring session sends me cowering into a corner. (I really love Chinese girls, don’t misunderstand me. They are adorable, petite, pretty, cuddly, emotional, pouty, and crazy about shopping. These are all very cute attributes in their way, but I think the fact that the adjectives I would use to describe myself are extraordinarily different makes it harder for me to devote myself to serious friendships. On a related note, these listed attributes are the very ones that make it so easy for Western men to find immense satisfaction in spending time with Chinese girls.) But spending time with Chinese people is the sure-fire way to learn the language, so I better get started. (Western men are on to something.)
Not only am I not spending enough time with Chinese people, but when I do spend time with them, they frequently slip into Shanghainese. Despite China being very close in size to the U.S., it not only has many different actual languages, but even local dialects that sound nothing like Mandarin. One of these dialects is Shanghainese. Part of me is secretly pleased when Shanghainese is spoken in my hearing because it gives me an excuse to be ignorant. Another part of me realizes that this complicates things even more, and straining my ears to catch the “Mandarin” conversation that is actually a Shanghainese conversation frustrates me. The other day I was in an interview at the language agency I work for, and I was mystified when they all began talking in what I thought was Mandarin. Later the client asked “Ni hui shuo Shanghaihua ma?” (“Can you speak Shanghainese?”) He went on to tell me that that is what they had been speaking in the interview. I began laughing and answered “Bu hui!” (“I can’t!”) I was also tempted to say, “In case you haven’t noticed, my Mandarin is in dire straits, so why even bother to ask if I can speak a local dialect??”
This will be my last excuse, I promise. Chinese is (arguably) the most difficult language to master. There’s a brilliant article circling the web that says it better than I could ever hope to. If you haven’t seen it, here you are: http://www.pinyin.info/readings/texts/moser.html Please take a moment to read this. I like that the author is a master of Chinese, and yet still admits to its outrageous complexity. The few foreigners I’ve met who have pretty well mastered the language tend to downplay the complexities, therefore making us weak, feeble-minded students struggling to gain a footing feel that much weaker and feebler. (They say things like, “we have similar stupid grammar rules in English,” or “English has two words for that too.” Don’t listen to them. Chinese is harder.)
This post has been a lot of bad news, and a lot of my weaknesses have been exposed. But there is a bit of good news. I sit next to an intoxicatingly adorable Japanese lady in class (if I was male that would be even better news!), and due to her lack of English fluency, we converse entirely in Mandarin. And that doesn’t just mean saying hello and goodbye to each other. We have formed a wonderful, warm, conversation-packed relationship, and I know many facts about her life, all of which I learned through the use of Mandarin (and a photograph or two). She also knows a great many things about me. (I’ve even told her some things that I’ve never told another living soul because, sometimes, somehow, it’s ok to say it in Mandarin when it’s not in English.) We talk about life, hobbies, food, places, pasts and futures. I’m sure the grammar I use is often incorrect, my word choices less-than-perfect, and my tones not always impeccable, but I am speaking Chinese, and that was my goal when I began studying seven months ago.
Oh, and another bit of good news: I have hired a Chinese tutor, and our first session is on Monday night. It will be an hour of conversing in Mandarin. I’m very, very excited. And I can do it.

Favorite China Blogs

In Rachael on April 8, 2011 at 18:59

I can’t sleep tonight, and I’m trying to not look at a clock because if I do I will feel guilty. But eyes become crafty at times like this. They currently are, of their own accord, stealthily attempting to peek at the clock on the lower right hand corner of my screen. It’s amazing how we think we are in complete control of our own body until we develope a sudden nervous twitch, or eyes with minds of their own.

Eyes and minds aside, I’d like to share a few of my favorite China blogs with you. I am not up to the task of original thought at this point in the evening, but these blogs more than make up for it. I should start by saying that up until a couple weeks ago, I didn’t read many blogs. Most of these I have found quite recently, and I know there are many more I have yet to discover.

Enjoy!

1. Bricoleurbanism: A mouthful of a title, but perfectly elegant content. This man doesn’t reveal his identity, so I am free to imagine the nicest person possible. I certainly appreciate his way of looking at the world and Shanghai in particular. His photographs are simple and maybe not even that good, but I really like them. If you’ve ever wondered what Shanghai truly, honestly is (not just the skyline and/or the Bund), look no further. Feel free to spend hours browsing his Shanghai photos like I did, er, do. Yes, despite living here I still stay up until 2:00 a.m looking at pictures of here. It’s not only his photographs that caught my attention, but also the unique goal and point of his blog: “Urbanism, Landscape, Ideas, Theory, Whimsy.” You’ll see extensive graphs of subway systems from around the world, aerial views of places, before and after photos, and videos. But maybe the coolest addition to his blog are pictures that you can hover your mouse over, which then allows you to see that particular picture compared to different places, or the same place at different times, or the same place reimagined. It’s in good taste, and his remarks, captions, titles, etc. make it a delight all around. I laughed very hard at a few captions. See if you can’t find them, and then we can laugh together. http://www.bricoleurbanism.org/category/pad-shanghai/

2. Shanghai Scrap: If you want the most comprehensive blog on Shanghai, this may be it. It seems that nothing happens in this city without Mr. Minter knowing about it. He’s a congming de ren (smart dude), and has a wicked sense of humour. (Not that humour is difficult to find around here! In fact, it’s difficult to find something that isn’t downright hilarious…) One of his latest posts describes a little experiment in which the participants used, how shall I put it, potentially combustible language over Chinese phone lines in an attempt to determine whether the Chinese government is listening in…but it goes deeper than that, and Shakespeare is involved. My favorite category that he lists is “Weird China,” for obvious reasons. Here, my friend, is Weird China: http://shanghaiscrap.com/?cat=31 )

3. Shanghailander: This also is a fairly comprehensive, well-rounded blog about Shanghai. You’ll find food, photography, architecture, the demolition of architecture (it hurts), books, history, Chinese television (it also hurts), movies, maps, museums, and more. But keep in mind that this blog focuses on the Shanghai of the roaring 20s, 30s, and 40s (or thereabouts). It’s a good reminder of the rich, unorthodox, and skanky history of this city, as well as a glimpse at “Old Shanghai,” which we local waiguoren wish we could have seen. http://shanghailander.net/

4. Shanghai Street Stories: Exquisite photographs and compelling accompanying essays. This blog should be known by more people. Flip through her photographs, and I won’t feel so bad about never taking photographs of my own! http://shanghaistreetstories.com/?p=2062

5. China Rhyming: This blogger is an actual author who claims to be using this blog as a catch-all for the “interesting bits that fall through the cracks somehow and never get used anywhere.” He’s funny too. I really enjoyed this entry that I leave you with now. http://www.chinarhyming.com/2011/03/30/shanghai-railway-museum-2-whats-inside/

After reading, let me know what you think of Shanghai.

I’m Still Here -Rachael

In Rachael on February 6, 2011 at 13:47

I’m still here, and at this point, I’m STILL while I’m here. The past few weeks have been ones of inaction: School is out for CNY (Chinese New Year! We locals just say “CNY.” Take note!), I haven’t made the trek to Suzhou where my beautiful family resides, and I haven’t done the things cool people do during CNY: traveling to HongKong, Lijiang, Dali, or any place really. Of course, I participate in sundry activities such as shopping at the fresh market (often on my scooter), visiting Shanghai Healing Home (where I hold Chinese babies), going to Church, and spending hours with my lovely aunt, uncle, cousins, and their always-entertaining-guests. But I’ve had my share of highlights. Some are even on course to becoming very favorite memories of Shanghai. And since a blog is meant to be updated, read on, my fellowmen.
Lost Heaven: Yunnanese food, and a GOT (Grand Old Time!)
My uncle has his own company here in Shanghai, and, like every manager, he throws a sizable shindig during CNY. This year he invited me. We dressed in our best. I wore my green jade necklace, some essential red, and hopped in the car with my four little-man cousins. The restaurant was divine. A large, dim, rambling place, with dozens of rooms, beautiful decor, staircases, old furniture strewn at random, balconies, tapestries, and food so good I stuffed myself silly. If you come visit Shanghai, I’ll take you there, and pay too. I sat by big man Uncle J. who told me what food was the best, and have some wine, why don’t you, Rachael? So I did. And little Jacob, with his head on me and his feet on Robb-the-American, slept at the table. Afterwards we went up to the gorgeous little bar on the fourth floor. We sat and talked and talked and drank (but not too much), and drew prizes. Some of us kept sleeping. We drove home in the highest of holiday spirits, through Shanghai’s finest streets, to an eclectic mix of tunes, courtesy of Uncle J. I was blissfully happy in an “I will never forget this beautiful night” sort of way.
Aunt Jeanne and BUNNIES
My uncle’s sister, Jeanne, is a Renaissance woman. I love her paintings, and she’s the president of a thriving baby clothes/toys company (Bunnies by the Bay). But my favorite part about Aunt Jeanne is her stories, which are told in equal parts Mandarin and English, and so funny I always refuse to go to bed. She grew up, with my uncle and two other brothers, in Taiwan. I’ve been told that her twangy Mandarin is the Asian equivalent of a Southern drawl. Aunt Jeanne came for a week, and after redecorating and rearranging my aunt’s whole house, invited me to help her set up the newest Bunnies store on W. Nanjing Rd. in Shanghai. It took all night, and I arrived home at 5:00 am with a generous paycheck in my pocket, and the priceless memory of staying up with Aunt Jeanne all night long.
I’m still here.

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